48 Photos

2022-06-16T05:21:18.000Z • Haute-Savoie, Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes, France

Four days around Mont Blanc

Inspired by the UTMB race, this was my first real experience of the alps and the 'hut' culture in Europe. I hiked and ran the loop in four days, staying in a different country each night. France > Italy > Switzerland > France

Jack Harris

Run

Chamonix to Refuge de la Croix du Bonhome

Chamonix to Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme

The thought of this trip had been a coping mechanism through a rough few months and setting off for four days in the mountains felt amazing.

With 40km and +3000m to cover on day one, the flat 8km to Les Houches was welcomed to kick things off.

Then the mountains and the heat started with a fairly uninspiring road up a ski field where I'm sure I must have missed a more interesting route.

The early hours of day one

From the top, things get good again. Flowing single track, a glacier, and descent down to Refuge Miage to test the quads. I stopped for a coke but have heard they're famous for the tarts.

Refuge Miage in the valley

Over the next pass and down into Les Contamines, I stopped for some proper food and supplies before the climb to Bonhomme.

27km down, 28 degrees, and 13km and 1400m of climbing to my accommodation for the night.

Views from the climb

Bonhomme isn't the best reviewed hut but the reviews for these alpine huts have to put in context, you're above 2,500m, food is brought in with donkeys, you've got a full bar, three course meal, and showers. It might not be hotel standard but I'd rather be here.

Views from Bonhomme

Run

Refuge de la Croix du Bonhome to Rifugio Walter Bonatti

I started the day with an alternate route over Col Des Fours, hoping to find some more interesting terrain and a few less kms. I got to experience some snow as I cruised down to the valley.

Note: This section can produce ice bridges so please be careful.

Snow through Col Des Fours

Realising I'd left lunch behind, I stopped in at Refuge Des Mottets to pick up some supplies.

The climb up to Col de la seigne and the crossing into Italy was slow. The downhill on the other side picked up the mood as the kms came easier.

Back climbing again, the temperatures were rising, the packed lunch (heavy cheese to bread ratio) wasn't sitting well, and there was some tough stuff before Courmayeur.

Overheating and hungry, I rolled into Courmayeur with sweat, dust and questions about why I was doing this. My mood lifted after a pizza, two cokes, a gelato, lemonade and Megan arriving.

The uphill out of Courmayeur is steep and wasn't much fun in the heat, but the section from Rifugio Bertone along to Refuge Walter Bonatti was flowing and beautiful.

Trails from Bertone to Bonatti

Bonatti is more of a hotel than a classic Rifugio, but the comforts were nice after a tough day.

Refuge Des Mottets

Refuge Walter Bonatti

Comforts at Bonatti

Run

Rifugio Walter Bonatti to Champex Lac

Day three was much calmer. I said goodbye to Megan and Laura joined for the last two days. To start the day, we descended into the valley, climbed to Grand Col Ferret, and crossed into Switzerland.

The last of Italy

With an easier day, we cruised down the valley, stopped for pizza and coke in La Fouly, and climbed up to Champex Lac for beer, cheese, and a swim.

Starting to look very Swiss

Auberge Gîte was great for a drink in the sun. Reliable power and hot water was appreciated.

A swim and a fondue in Champex

Pizza

Alpage de la Peule

Auberge Gîte

Run

Champex Lac to Chamonix

We kicked off the day with a climb up to Alpage de Dovine, which wasn't open yet but based on the number of people coming the other way, it must be popular.

I was feeling good and had a great time descending into Col de Forclaz where we stocked up on fruit tarts, bought more Coke and headed down to Trient.

The climb up to Col de Balme stretched out and was mostly head-down silence as we made our way up. By this point, the trip was being broken into sections by where we could find the next cold Coke and the refuge on the Col provided.

We cruised down through the ski field and then up to Aiguillette des Posettes where things got significantly steeper and more technical on the descent.

Col de Balme and views down the valley to Chamonix

We had one more climb up to the ladder section and then a descent all the way to Chamonix. Fading and with 5km left we stumbled across Chalet de La Floria a coke and some company got us down to Chamonix to finish the loop.

As should be tradition, we finished with burgers and beers at Poco Loco.

The ladder section

The finish brought mixed emotions, I was physically feeling good and had loved the simplicity of spending big days moving through the mountains. As a first experience of the alps this couldn't have been much better.

Refuge du Col de Balme

Chalet de La Floria

Chamonix Spots

If you're staying in Chamonix for a while before or after, check out these spots.

Poco Loco Burger

Dainty Pizza

Moody Coffee

Wine and Cheese

Gear List

For anyone interested, my gear list is below. It was very hot the whole trip, I didn't wear anything other than shorts and a t-shirt on the trail and had enough to keep warm in the evenings.

I'd made a conscious decision to pack light and knew that if a significant weather event happened I would need to wait it out rather than pushing through with minimal gear.

I packed everything into a 12L Salomon pack that wouldn't have weighed more than a kg or two. You can pick up anything you need from towns throughout the trip, so I was happy that I could correct any gear mistakes on route.

I carried one set of clothes for running and a second set for changing into at the hut. Each night I would wash and hang clothes ready to wear the next morning.

Packed Gear

Salomon Adv 12L Pack
3 x 500ml soft flasks - I had a water filter attachment for one bottle and used that to fill the others. You could manage without, but it gave peace of mind for a few grams
Running Poles
2 x Running Tshirt - The idea with clothing was to have one pair for running each day that would be washed at the refuge and then another pair for the evening that could be used for running if anything failed.
2 x Warm Long Sleeve Tshirt
Waterproof Jacket
2 x Running Shorts
1 x Warm tights
2 x Socks
3 x Underwear
Microspikes - This was dead weight and on reflection, I don't think there are many times that you'd need these on this trail. Crampons for any serious snow and poles for smaller tracked sections are probably a better option.
Headtorch - This wasn't required with the days being so long and the huts having power
Sleeping bag liner
Gloves
Beanie
Lightweight Small Towel
Melatonin & Panadol - Melatonin was ideal for getting to sleep in the refuges.
Toiletries - Soap, Toothbrush, Toothpaste, Nail Scissors, Sunscreen, Earplugs, Deodorant
USB wall plug + iphone cord

Gear I wish I had

Washing powder/liquid - A bit of hand soap only goes so far on clothes that have done 40km a day in 30 degrees
Lightweight Puffer - I left this behind because it wouldn't fit in my bag. I didn't miss it, but it would have been nice to have it at the end of the day

Booking your own trip

Booking isn't super straight forward, you'll find a mix of online booking - email addresses to reach out in French/Italian and loose policies around deposits and cancellation. Embrace this as part of TMB.

The season mostly sells out and to get the dates and huts you want, you'll want to be booking towards the end of the year for the next season (June - Sept). The huts typically open from mid June where snow can add some complexity. You can tent and there's less requirements to book for this.

This site is a good place to start: https://www.autourdumontblanc.com/en/

This group has every question answered if you take time to search: https://www.facebook.com/groups/13615483101