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Four Days in Picos de Europa
A planned three-day trip through Picos that turned into four. A perfect introduction to the Spanish mountains and their tolerance for trails that go anywhere 🧗♂️
Mixed
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Hike
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Fuente de to Refuge Collado Jermosa
I'd highly recommend this trip for a long weekend if you're comfortable with more advanced trails, logistics are easy and the place is beautiful and seems to be not as well known.
After flying in from London, having some dramas with a rental car so after driving toFuente De we set off mid-afternoon in the rain and fog. Even getting a cautionary 'the weather is pretty bad at the top' from the cable car staff. We set off, loosely following a path with few signs of other humans.
Soon things cleared up and we could take in views, a bit of uphill, a bit of snow, a bit of route finding but we were making solid time to Refuge Collado Jermosa.
I was a bit worried we might miss dinner and couldn't call ahead, but I should've known that being Spain it would served after 8pm.
The refugio was fantastic, a great keeper, great food, and a great sunset. Would recommend.
Logistics:
- You can park at Fuente De free. Or at least is was when we were there
- We took the cable car up for 17 eur each return. Didn't realise that the return tickets were same day only so worth checking this.
Hike
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Refuge Collado Jermosa to Bulnes
Day two started with a lot of down. First straight down the cliff..? below the refuge. Safe enough but not an area you'd want someone above to make a mistake.
This section fromRefuge Collado Jermosa toCardinanes de Valideon was a highlight. Varied landscapes from alpine, through glades and down to a cute village.
We cruised along the river to Cain de Valdeon and stopped for lunch and supplies before tackling the very crowdedLa Ruta Del Cares.
We skipped the walk up toBulnes by taking the funicular but we should've walked. It was expensive and not much quicker.
Logistics:
- Don't rely onCardinanes de Valideon for food but there's everything you could need down the road inCain de Valdeon
- Don't bother with the funicular, it's expensive and underground
Hike
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Bulnes to Sotres
The original plan was to hike from Bulnes, up toRefugio de Urriellu and then over the pass atHorcada Rojos and back to the car at Fuente de. We got up to the Refugio and after speaking to the hut keeper he advised the pass was very snowy and would require microspikes and an axe which we didn't have.
The alternate route over the pass atCollada Bonita looked slightly lower and a few trail runners assured me they wouldn't need to use spikes so we headed up that way. Spikes weren't required but with cloud rolling in, an unclear route and too much time spent climbing than hiking we decided to turn around and head back down.
This also meant finding accommodation for an unplanned third night. We had 12km toSotres which had a few hotels and restaurants so we pointed ourselves in that direction.
This unexpected overnight ended up being great, the town was alive with other hikers and trail runners, we sat in the sun drinking beer and took ourselves for dinner. Much nicer than the planned night in Santander
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Sotres to Fuente De
The plan was for me to run back to the cable car, pick up the car, and drive the 50min Google showed back to pick up Megan in Sotres.
A few kms in, it was clear that our Fiat 500 wouldn't be driving this road nd the alternate route was 2 hours around. After convincing the cable car operator that I had been hiking for 4 days (in a t-shirt, shorts, and trail shoes) and didn't know my ticket was for one day, I was on the lift back to the car.
Logistics
- You could easily make this a planned walk, it was on a road but with great views and no cars it's not a terrible option if you need to take it.
- The road from Fuente de to Sotres is really only suitable for cars with a high wheelbase.